Boning

Due to the stresses placed on corsets as they compress the body of the wearer, corset components must be selected with care. Particular emphasis needs to be placed on the boning material used. Corset boning needs to tread a fine line between rigidity and flexibility. Boning is required to support the corset seams to maintain the optimum shape, while also allowing some give as the lacing is tightened. If the corset boning was completely rigid, the corset would become deformed with tight binding. This would cause the seams to fail, the fabric to tear, and would probably result in physical injury to the corset wearer. There are very few materials that are suitable for use as corset boning. The choices for corset boning are steel boning, spiral steel, plastic boning, hoop boning, rigilene boning and fusion coated. Not all of these are suitable for use in corset construction. Early corsets often used whalebone or featherbone in this role. It is easy to assume that this is the etymology of the terms bone and boning.

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Steel boning is made from nylon coated spring steel. The ends are dipped in plastic to reduce the risk that they will tear the corset fabric. The nylon coating prevents rusting, but with some types of steel boning the bone can twist within the casing. Steel bones can only flex in one direction, so they can not be used in curved channels. This severely limits their application in corset construction, although their high rigidity makes them an ideal choice where flex in one direction only is required.

Spiral steel boning is made of interlinked loops of galvanised spring steel wire. It can flex in two directions which makes it ideal for use in curved corset channels. Pre-cut lengths come with tip coverings, but it can also be purchased in continuous rolls and cut to the required length with a pair of bolt cutters. These custom length corset bones will required additional end caps to protect the corset fabric. Metal end camps can be crimped onto the boning using pliers. Spiral boning is ideal for latex corsets as then require flexible boning to match the flex of the material.

Plastic boning is less rigid than steel boning which makes it unsuitable for waist reducing corsets. In addition, plastic boning can only flex in one direction so it can not be used in curved channels.

Hoop boning comprises two strips of steel encased in either buckram (a stiff cotton fabric) or plastic. The principle disadvantage of hoop boning for corset construction is its circular shape. This makes it ideal for skirts, but less useful for corsets. Hoop boning has moderate flex in one direction and requires end caps.

Rigilene boning is made from polyester. It has high flex in one direction, so it only offers light support and can not be used in curved channels. Its main advantage is its ability to be sewn into garments. Rigilene boning is most often found in foundation garments such as latex waspies, merry widows and basques.

Twill boning is a lightweight plastic boning that is already covered with a cotton bone case. Twill boning can be sewn or even glued directly onto material, but it lacks rigidity and is difficult to end cap.

There are several types of boning tip available. Ready made boning tips are u-shaped caps that clip onto the end of the bone. A newer approach is bone tipping fluid. This is simply liquid latex that is applied to the end of a piece of boning or a busk. It creates a custom end cap that prevents sharp bone edges from damaging the corset fabric. A cheaper alternative is to use DIY frame sealant. However, neither method is suitable for spiral metal boning.

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